AS we begin the second leg of the inaugural G Adventures West
Africa itinerary aboard MS Expedition, we have already ticked off
South Africa, Namibia, Angola, Congo, Sao Tome & Principe, Benin,
Togo and Ghana.
It’s a chance to reflect on some of the favourite shore excursions
enjoyed so far.
From my own impressions and a most unscientific straw poll of
passengers, here are the favourites (in no particular order):
Angola: The instant charm of the people and a quaint train ride in
historic carriages along seaside from the port of Lobito to the town
of Benguela was a great kick-off for what was to follow.
Professional ground operation from www.ecu-tur.com enhanced
the whole experience.
Sao Tome & Principe: Again, a former Portuguese colony and former
slave port, people here opened their arms to us with this tiny coffee
and cocoa producing nation delivering a full and enriching day of
cultural and historical insight.
Decidedly Caribbean in feel, the people smiled broadly as they
sang and danced for us. The doe-eyed and cheery children just
melted passengers’ hearts. On nearby Principe we luxuriated at
Mark Shuttleworth’s Bom Bom Island Resort where I encouraged our
Zodiac driver to drop me at the beach to explore some ruins which
turned out to be an overgrown 15th century Portuguese church.
Togo: In the true West Africa of legend and fable, Togo is a nation
with a balanced and confident persona. Part of the once notorious
‘slave coast’ it became a model German colony until 1914, after
which Togo developed into a Francophone nation comprising several
dominant ethnic groups, all of whom still cling to superstition,
animalism and voodoun (aka voodoo).
The famous Akodessewa fetish market in Lomé was always going
to be a highlight and did not disappoint. Chock full of desiccated
animals of all sorts and thronging with hucksters eager to make
a meal from the goggle-eyed tourists, we snapped up little nailriddled
tourist dolls and talismen for all kinds of ailments, woes and
protection. Some of us ventured to the rear stalls for the “good stuff”
and readings by oracles. With the valuable assistance of ethnohistorian
David Conrad, I left with a genuine, blood-stained sacrificial
item from one of the darkened and decidedly spooky back booths.
Just exactly what it does, we’re not sure yet!
The afternoon was a village visit with a twist. We were presented
to the local ‘king’ and feted with more robust song and dance. Here
the (post-menopausal) ‘power women’ attend to the serious affairs
of the village and they preside over proceedings from a position of
undeniable authority.
Ghana: While in itself Ghana may not have offered the most startling
assortment of attractions, who could not be impressed with the
quirky concept of fantasy coffins, where you can have made a casket
to represent your wildest desire, be it a beer bottle, bible, boat or
movie projector. True. The wild hurly-burly of the craft markets kept
most to a few hard-fought trinkets, but David excelled again and
returned with an exquisite 19th century Benin bronze figurine easily
worth four-figures which he acquired for a song.
We continue on to Sierra Leone and Senegal before wrapping up this
time next week. For more information see www.gadventures.com.
