It had long been a dream to explore one of the world’s most
remote and exotic cruising rivers, abundant in wildlife and
cloaked in mystery. Better still, on a luxurious vessel with only
four suites, and an itinerary that is more safari than cruise.
Day 1: We boarded at Delfin Amazon Cruises’ custom-built dock,
complete with palm leaf roof, at Nauta, two hours drive from
Iquitos, Peru. Glowing in the darkness, the Delfin I seemed a
decadent home for only three couples – Germans, Canadians and
Americans – and myself. Welcomed with Pisco Sours, we were
shown to our oversized suites (about 32 square metres, plus a
balcony as big as a bus). Reuniting for a delicious seafood meal,
the lucky seven guests ended the night at the open bar on the
top deck as we sailed down the Maranon River.
Day 2: After a breakfast fit for kings, the group was led onto a
skiff to spot birds and animals along the Ucayali River. We saw
iguanas, toucans, macaws, hawks, hummingbirds, woodpeckers,
kingfishers and a three-toed sloth very slowly descending a tree.
In the distance, the laughter of ant birds and the distinctive call
of oropendolas rang through the jungle. Then, a pod of dolphins
appeared. Magical!
In the afternoon, our guide Renny took us on an easy hike
through a forest, where we learned about a fraction of the
Amazon’s 65,000 species of trees and plants. The evening was
spent sampling more Peruvian cuisine and cocktails in the warm
October breeze.
Day 3: Today we woke at 6am to catch the sunrise fauna of the
Pacaya-Samiria Reserve. Dozens of squirrel monkeys leapt
through trees; a black vulture caught a catfish; and we also had
the chance to go fishing. Within five minutes, everyone had
pulled in a piranha each! After lunch, some gentle kayaking and a
three-course dinner, we relaxed and watched a storm roll in.
Day 4: Time to visit a village and meet the locals, where children
happily posed for photos. Then, two of us accepted the
opportunity to jump in for a swim.
On our last night, we were treated to a beautiful sunset, when
suddenly a rare pink dolphin popped up and played nearby for
half an hour. A five-course feast was followed by Chilean and
Argentinean wines with bartender Denis up on deck.
Day 5: Stopping at a market before the journey back home, we
also went to the Manatee Rescue Centre. Passengers then
carried on to other adventures, such as Machu Picchu, a short
flight away.
Fares start at US$4,200 per person twin-share for a four-night
cruise, drinks, meals, activities and transfers. The vessel’s engine
is loud, but otherwise Delfin I is modern and deluxe. See
www.delfinamazoncruises.com.
LAN offers six one-stop flights per week from Sydney to
Santiago, via Auckland (and three non-stop flights in a code
share service operated by Qantas), with connections to Lima and
Iquitos. See www.lan.com.
