THE first European port in North Borneo wasn’t exactly a success. The
British North Borneo Company needed a trading port in the late 19th
Century to load their rubber, tobacco and timber. But a dispute with
the local warlord, Mat Salleh, erupted and his militia burned the first
facility on Gaya Island down. Undeterred, the British moved across the
bay and created Jesselton. Destroyed again during WWII, it finally
became Kota Kinabalu in 1968.
Full scale tourism has only been active in Sabah for the last decade or
so, prior to that it was devoted to commerce like timber, but the 21st
Century has seen a distinct change of focus for East Malaysia. With the
world’s attention turned to the disappearing rainforests of Borneo and
the plight of the poster species like orangutan and pygmy elephants,
eco-tourism is the new catch cry. But Borneo is in a quandary: how to
build tourism to a point of sustainability while resisting the temptation
to plunder for the quick buck.
Cruise ships have been a natural source of tourism for KK. A deep
port, easy access to city and shopping, resorts, parks, museums and
cultural attractions all help create a welcoming atmosphere that is
enhanced by the naturally hospitable people. In the first four months
of this year Oceania, Cunard, Princess and P&O have all paid visits,
while smaller vessels like Orion II, Columbus, Seabourn Spirit and the
Japanese Pacif ic Venus have likewise found themselves in port.
While there is a low-key “Surfers Paradise” feel to KK, it has less than
a dozen significant hotels, with the sprawling Sutera Harbour the most
recognisable. The street markets and ad hoc trader stalls still deliver a
real ‘Asian’ experience, while just around the corner is the huge
modern mall, resplendent in designer brands and retail luxury.
The premier shore excursion is certainly the UNESCO World Heritage
Mount Kinabalu Park, but it’s a long day and a bit of a nail-biting drive
what there is can be done on foot. Just out of the city is the Mari Mari
Cultural Village, modelled on the similar Sarawak attraction in Kuching,
it delivers a distilled ethnological tour of the local Bajau, Lundayeh,
Murut, Rungus and Dusun people and their traditions. A bit sanitised
for purists perhaps, but an enlightening introduction all the same.
Orangutans are the reason many people come to Borneo and the only
opportunity in KK is at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort about 30 minutes
by road from downtown. This is basically a small education centre and
feeding platform for a few animals. Not a wild experience, but better
than nothing.
Many cruises turn
around in this
friendly port and this
is a perfect
opportunity to stay
back or come early
to take in the wider
attractions at a more leisurely pace. Climb the 4000m peak, play a
round of golf, ride the historic North Borneo Railway or enjoy some of
the many watersport and adrenalin activities free of the cruise crush.
The main museum was under renovation at time of writing, so please
check before you head off.
A visit to one of the harbour islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman
Marine Park like Gaya or Manukan is also fun for beach junkies looking
for a fix or hikers who want to stretch their legs. While diving is offered,
it’s really only for beginners. Hardcore scuba nuts will want to go out on
reefs for real diving.
For more information on Sabah: www.sabahtourism.com.
