On the bucket list of any die-hard cruiser is the opportunity to round
Cape Horn, the furthest tip of South America.
Part of the allure is the notorious history of these dangerous waters,
known as the sailors’ graveyard.
As the northern border of the Drake Passage, the Horn has claimed
the lives of 10,000 men in more than 800 shipwrecks.
Little more than a century ago, this shipping route, between the
Pacific and Atlantic oceans, was vital to the world’s trade.
But the construction of the Panama Canal 100 years ago has
relegated the experience to extreme yachtsmen and cruise
passengers, albeit in a much safer way.
The MV Stella Australis steers clear of trouble and its scheduled
landing at Cape Horn National Park is ‘weather permitting’.
On my voyage, we are fortunate to have calm seas and blue sky, but
conditions are still blustery enough to feel a sense of achievement.
Taking zodiac boats to the shore, we are amazed to see the crew
standing in the freezing water, complete with wetsuits, which sets the
appropriate adventurous tone.
Assisting with a precarious disembarkation, they help 100
passengers first step foot on ‘the end of the world’.
We climb up the hill to reach the summit, where an albatrossshaped
monument honours the sailors lost at sea.
A couple of hours is enough to see the Chilean Navy station,
manned by one man and his family, and its lighthouse and chapel.
Grinning passengers are thrilled to have made it.
Glaciers and penguins
If a landing is not possible at Cape Horn, the cruise offers more than
enough other highlights: glaciers, penguins, dolphins, beaver dams,
the Strait of Magellan, lectures about the native Yamana people,
known to Europeans as the Giants of Patagonia, and the history of
Charles Darwin’s expedition on the HMS Beagle.
The natural beauty of Tierra del Fuego is worth the journey in itself.
Guided tours include an easy walk around the sub-polar forest to
view the Marinelli Glacier and unusual flora.
The next day, we hike to the huge Pia Glacier and then spend the
afternoon sailing through Glacier Alley, as amazing as the name
suggests.
On a rainy morning, the zodiacs take us to see a colony of Magellan
penguins and cormorants.
It’s almost like Antarctica (if you’ve never been to Antarctica)
without having to spend two days crossing the Drake.
BOOK NOW
Cruceros Australis has two ships operating Cape Horn cruises
(September to April).
Itineraries between Ushuaia (Argentina) and Punta Arenas (Chile)
range from three to seven nights.
The 210-passenger, 4,530-tonne MV Stella Australis has a dining
room, two lounges with open bar, a small gym and double and single
cabins.
2013/14 fares start at US$1,376 per person twin-share including all
guided shore excursions, park fees, meals and drinks (wine, beer,
spirits, tea, coffee and soft drinks).
LAN operates flights from Sydney to Ushuaia and Punta Arenas via
Santiago.
For more details on South American adventures, see
www.australis.com and www.lan.com.
