One hundred years ago, the so-called Heroic Age of Antarctic
exploration was at its height. Men like Scott, Shackleton, Mawson and
others, forgotten to time, opened up the great Southern continent for
science, exploration and adventure. Their exploits were consumed
voraciously by the popular press, the adoring public following their every
step as these incredible men, apparently impervious to hardship and
deprivation, forged deeper and deeper into the harsh frozen realm in
search of glory in the name of the great British Empire.
The Great War stifled many plans and left a world bruised and battered
but Antarctic exploration continued, albeit subdued. In the Second
World War, Britain was afraid its hard won Southern interests may be
threatened and the secret Operation Tabarin was organised in 1943 to
patrol and report on any enemy movements in the region around the
Antarctic Peninsula. Bases at Deception Island, Hope Bay and Port
Lockroy were expanded and manned by naval personnel who had no
idea where they were headed. Issued sunglasses on their departure from
Britain, they surmised their destination would be warm and tropical.
Wrong.
Further bases were added and this effort gradually transformed into
the current multi-national presence we see today. Visitors aboard
Antarctic cruise vessels frequently visit these sites. Some are maintained
while are others have been left to “benign neglect”. One in particular,
Port Lockroy, celebrates one hundred years since its establishment, first
as a whaling outpost, then ‘Base A’ as part of Tabarin in 1944.
Abandoned in 1962, but restored and preserved since 1996, Port
Lockroy is now the most visited site on the Peninsula with visitor
numbers hitting a peak of 17,000 in a recent year. As many as 30 vessels
visit the ‘living museum’ in the course of a season (between November
to March) and the little post office handles around 17,000 items of
specially marked items of mail. The gift shop carries everything from
postcards and books to fridge magnets and fleecies. One passenger
from a private charter
spent $12,000 in a
single visit, so the
little outpost
certainly pays its way.
Once the preserve
of the male-only
British Antarctic
Survey, Port Lockroy
is currently manned,
if that is the correct
term, by a team of five, four of whom are women. Their duties include
occasional surveys of the healthy Gentoo penguin colony and serving
the stream of guests hungry for genuine Antarctic souvenirs. An
additional Nissen hut has been built to enhance crew comfort, but
otherwise the structure is faithful to its original design, complete with
recreated radio room, kitchen and common areas.
“Anyone from any country can apply to work here for a season,” says
Ulva the current base commander and officer of the UK Antarctic
Heritage Trust, a not-for-profit charity set up to maintain the historic
bases.”We’re only supplied once a year, but also rely on help from the
many cruise ships to bring additional items and ferry staff.”
Fancy a stint at an Antarctic base? Why not apply for a position on Port
Lockroy? For information on the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust and its
work, visit www.heritage-antarctica.org.
