It’s one of those vexing trivia questions. What is the capital of
the US state of Alaska? No, not Anchorage as most people
would suggest, but the tiny port city of Juneau, home to just few
more than 30,000 hardy folks. Like so many cities and towns on
the frontier, Juneau was founded in the late 19th century gold
rush and quickly developed into a busy transport hub. Curiously
though, Juneau has never been accessible by road. The
completely land-locked city can only be reached by air or water.
As a cruise port, Juneau sees around 562 ships each season
ranging in size from the tiny 60-passenger National Geographic
Sea Lion to the massive 2000-passenger Rhapsody of the Seas.
The city benefits enormously from the 877,748 cruise passengers
who pass through the town dropping dollars in the stores,
restaurants and attractions. On one day alone, I saw four large
and three small vessels load and leave the wharf for the waters
of the Inside Passage.
Australian cruisers who make the big leap across the Pacific to
Alaska would be selling themselves short if they didn’t take time
to see more of the land by extending their stay at either or both
ends of their itinerary. Juneau has an array of sights that are
worth at least an extra day or two (or three). Some highlights:
Glacier Gardens Rainforest Park. A painstakingly constructed 50
acre botanic display built on top of land devastated by a
mudslide in 1984. Get up close to the unique plant species that
inhabit the Tongass National Forest – the largest temperate
rainforest in the world – where some of the trees are 700 years
old. Hear the fascinating story of the gardens’ genesis, learn
about native herbal medicines and ride the buggy to the
panoramic viewing platform for a spectacular overlook of
Juneau. The other great view is from the top of the Mount
Roberts Tramway which leads up from the wharf. Just what is an
‘upside down flower tower’?
Mendenhall Glacier. Okay, you will see plenty of glaciers from
your ship, but the easy, drive-to visitor centre adds education
and interpretation that may be missing from your big ship
experience. Wildlife encounters are common here too. Yes, even
bears.
Macauley Salmon Hatchery. Now this might sound a bit dull,
but I thought it was fascinating. See and learn how wild salmon
are used to enhance fish stocks in the waters throughout
Alaska’s Inside Passage while you tour through the extensive
facility. This hatchery, one of 36 in Alaska, releases 115 million
fish each season. Plus I learned two new words today:
osmocompetent and otolith marking. See!
Needless to say, the fishing is amazing with massive Halibut,
nice fat salmon as well as other varieties like freshwater Dolly
Varden and cod. Alaskans love to hike and there are more hiking
trails in Juneau than roads and you can stroll off for up to four
hours on any of the trails out of town. Just be sure to complete
Bear Safety 101 beforehand.
For more information including tours, excursions, shopping,
dining and accommodation, see www.traveljuneau.com.
