Christchurch residents have endured more than 11,000 quakes and
aftershocks since the magnitude 7.1 earthquake in September 2010.
The most devastating occurred on 22 February 2011 causing
extensive damage to the region, including the Port of Lyttelton, and
the loss of 185 lives.
Two years on, the city is slowly rebuilding but many of the streets
and attractions remain cordoned off.
I visited last month when Crystal Symphony docked in Akaroa – the
alternative port used by most cruise lines.
At first, Crystal Cruises’ shore excursion staff tried to change my mind.
“It’s really depressing – it still looks like the earthquake happened
last week,” she said.
But I took the bus anyway – a 90-minute drive away.
As warned, the amount of destruction was shocking.
Several blocks are out of bounds; formerly busy streets are shut down.
The sound of cranes and bulldozers fills the air, with construction
happening all around.
The half-collapsed cathedral and mounds of rubble give the
appearance of a modern-day equivalent of Roman ruins.
Tourists wander around taking photos, posing, smiling.
It’s an unsettling experience: a mix of morbid curiosity and pity.
However, there are many positive signs of progress.
The best outcome is a new area called the Re:START Mall, where
shipping containers have been converted into cafés and shops.
Much better than it sounds, this is a funky, innovative, car-free
arcade buzzing with life.
On the weekend, it appears to be the hot spot for locals to meet for
a coffee, have lunch and read the papers.
Live bands play outdoors, while street performers entertain passing
shoppers.
Fortunately, many of Christchurch’s most beautiful attractions and
Gothic Revival buildings are standing strong.
The Botanic Gardens, one of the world’s largest city parks, is open
all day.
Easy to stroll around independently or take a tour, the gardens
feature more than 10,000 specimens of plants, towering 19thcentury
trees and fountains.
The Avon River is as lovely as ever, especially by punt, which
enhances the city’s English ambience.
Punting is possible from the historic Antigua Boatshed, built in
1882 (www.boatsheds.co.nz).
The café attached to the shed is an ideal venue for lunch with the
nicest view in town.
Picnic baskets can also be purchased to enjoy along the river.
Canterbury Museum is next door to the i-SITE Visitor Centre (on
Rolleston Avenue, where the buses drop off and pick up), which
provides free city maps with self-guided walking tours.
Everything is accessible by foot; no public transport required.
Meanwhile, it will be many years until the rest of the city is
completely rebuilt.
The total cost to insurers has been estimated at NZ$15 billion,
making it by far New Zealand’s most expensive natural disaster, and
the third-costliest earthquake (nominally) worldwide.
Cruise passengers can do their part by spending at the local
restaurants, stores and attractions.
For more information, see www.christchurchnz.com.
To book Crystal Cruises itineraries in New Zealand, go to
www.wiltrans.com.au.
