COULD the Ganges become the next hot spot for river cruises? On an inspection trip I joined last month, four major companies were scoping out the destination.
Although two operators were not yet ready to commit (or tell me!), Scenic Tours and Travel Indochina confirmed they’d be chartering a brand new luxury ship in 2015: the Ganges Voyager.
The only tourist vessel currently exploring the Ganges – and its tributary, the Hooghly – is the Bengal Ganga.
This 56-passenger ship, which launched in 2009, was the first in 200 years to take travellers on overnight cruises in the region. Over the previous two centuries, the legendary waterway had been gradually abandoned as the country’s opium trade died off and traffic moved to the railways.
The Ganges also gained a reputation for being polluted, while India has long been regarded as hard work for a tourist.
But things are changing. More than 100 factories have been closed down, and in 2011 the West Bengal government initiated a beautification project along the riverbank from Kolkata (Calcutta).
Ghats will be renovated, gardens landscaped and footpaths illuminated. One town – an old French settlement – already has a promenade lined with ornate, almost Parisian lanterns.
The streets in most villages are still very littered, but the water looks silty rather than dirty, and it definitely doesn’t smell at all.
The vast majority of the scenery is lovely and green – lush rice fields, spice crops and orchards, interspersed with amazing temples and the occasional British-influenced palace.
Most sacred sites are immaculate, boasting well-maintained buildings, landscaped gardens and spotless grounds.
The Bengal Ganga owner and director of Heritage Cruises is now partnering with the US-based Haimark to build the boutique-style Ganges Voyager, which promises to bring a new level of glamour to Indian river cruising.
The ship will have 28 modern fully equipped suites, a sun deck, spa, gym, lounge and dining room serving a mix of Western and Indian cuisine.
So what’s the itinerary like? Short answer: fascinating, relaxing, diverse; a cultural and spiritual revelation.
Every day offers visits to historical and religious sites (Hindu, Buddhist and Hare Krishna) and villages frozen in time.
The other main attraction of this journey is that hardly anyone else has cruised here. There is absolutely nothing touristy about it. We didn’t see another boat all week – only commuter ferries.
For some locals, we were the first Westerners they had ever seen.
They lined the riverfront to welcome us, waving and calling out “Hello, how are you?” Children showed off, somersaulting into the water, swimming after the boat.
A typical seven-night cruise is bookended by five-star hotel stays in bustling cities of sensory overload (Delhi, Calcutta, Varanasi) and an optional extension to Jaipur and the Taj Mahal.
The most memorable two days are spent in Varanasi, where the sight of thousands of pilgrims bathing in the river is unforgettable.
Passengers catch rickshaws through the crazy chaotic streets to attend the sunset and sunrise ceremonies and witness a funeral, where bodies are cremated beside the river – this is culture shock in the extreme.
For details, see www.haimarktravel.com or contact a travel agent.
