From G Adventures inaugural West Africa voyage on MS Expedition.
Once upon a time the post-Antarctic reposition was a mad dash
up the Atlantic with maybe a stop at Tristan de Cunha, Ascension
or Cape Verde. Nowadays, with the pressure on adventure cruise
companies to find new territories for their growing legions of “been-there-
done-that” repeat clients, coupled with the slowly opening
doors of West African nations, this journey is becoming a must-do in
its own right.
In CW on 24 Jan 2012, we examined the various operators currently
executing or planning itineraries along the African coast from Cape
Town as far as Morocco. Previously unheard of ports and countries
are now appearing on sailing schedules. Angola, Congo, Ghana and
Senegal are just a few of those once forbidden lands now welcoming
visitors. CW is fortunate to be travelling with G Adventures [www.
gadventures.com] as their vessel, the MS Expedition, works its way
from stunning Cape Town, all the way to Dakar over three weeks.
“This is a true expedition,” says Lyn Mair, leader of the team
of highly experienced staff who have spent the last two years
painstakingly assembling the itinerary, “even though we believe
we’ve crossed every tee, Africa is certain to throw up some surp
rises.” Lyn should know. She’s been leading tours around Africa’s
islands for decades.
Reaching the midway point of our journey, we’ve already moved
north from the relative civilisation of Cape Town, through the
desolate wastes of Namibia, the recovering nation of Angola and
today, the suspicious and brooding former French territory of Congo,
where Africa did deal us a few wild cards.
The sturdy, ice-strengthened, 130 passenger MS Expedition is
certainly more at home in polar waters, but shows no reluctance
operating in the warmer climes of equatorial Africa. Okay, the air
conditioning is working overtime and the Zodiacs are still piled
on deck, but the 40 year old girl hasn’t missed a beat, cruising
effortlessly up to her top speed of 14 knots.
I’m going to go on record and predict this route, with its myriad
variations, will dominate the must-do lists of veteran expedition
cruisers for the next few years. This sold out voyage follows the
pattern of other operators like Hapag-Lloyd, Lindblad National
Geographic and Zegrahm who all report strong demand from clients
already bored with the ‘ho-hum’ Antarctic Peninsula and Svalbard.
Impressions? So far it’s been a remarkable voyage with plenty to
keep restless minds occupied both at sea and on land. The shore
excursions have included cultural experiences, historical sites and a
taste of natural beauty or, in the case of the bizarre Welwitschia plant
of Namibia, natural ugliness. It should be said this is not a voyage
for all tastes. It’s unpredictable, uses many untested land agents
and operators, a bit expensive and chock full of surprises. If you are
comfortable cruising with a dash of the unknown and can roll with
whatever falls in your lap, then it might be just your cruise. A fan of
midnight buffets, ballroom dancing and Las Vegas shows? Maybe not
so much for you. That said, the likes of Silversea and Azamara are not
unfamiliar with these waters either.
Follow Rod’s progress at www.expeditioncruising.com.
