Built in 1931 for a life of luxurious Pacific cruising, the 200m SS
President Coolidge began her life carrying the well-to-do and who’s
who of American society. Her playgrounds included Hawaii, Hong
Kong and, ironically, Japan, where she sped to from San Francisco in
record time. Her guests reclined around two swimming pools,
preened themselves in salons, worked out in gyms or just hung out at
the ornate soda fountain. Her fate, however, was anything but
salubrious.
As war in the Pacific intensified, the US War Department sent her
on voyages around the expanding theatre. She evacuated US
civilians and government personnel from Hong Kong and other ports
as the tensions escalated and in 1941 she was converted to troopship
operations and immediately put to work bolstering Allied garrisons.
After Pearl Harbour, she was stripped of fancy kit, painted drab and
fitted with a 20mm anti-aircraft cannon.
On October 26, 1942 the fully-loaded Coolidge approached the US
base on Espirito Santo and, ever concerned about enemy
submarines, Capt Henry Nelson made a beeline for the entrance
channel. What somebody had omitted to tell Nelson however was
that the channel was mined and no sooner had the Coolidge poked its
bow into the opening … ka-boom! And then another ka-boom.
Nelson knew he had no hope of saving his ship so he steamed for
shore in an attempt to beach the 22,000 ton liner, but he struck a
reef instead. For 90 minutes the Coolidge teetered on the edge while
5340 men calmly scaled rope ladders and waded ashore. But then it
all went wrong and the huge ship listed and slipped backward into
deep water.
Army Captain Elwood J. Euart knew he had men in the infirmary
who could not escape. He raced back inside the doomed ship and
took them all to safety and when he went back for a last look, the
Coolidge went under, trapping the brave officer. He and one
crewman killed in the
first explosion were
the only two
casualties.
Partial salvage of the
enormous amounts of
material continued
until 1983 when the Vanuatu government banned it forever. Today
the wreck is one of the world’s most famous dives satisfying both
experienced and novice divers alike.
She lies ingloriously on her port side in 21-73m and local dive
operators have concocted dozens of adventures above and within
the ship. Inside the hull are all manner of war material including
vehicles, ammunition, artillery and heavy equipment as well as
poignant personal items like small arms, helmets, boots and medical
supplies.
Cruise lines visiting Vanuatu frequently offer dives on the famous
vessel as part of their shore excursion programs, but the most
adventurous dives can only be done by experienced PADI-endorsed
divers. Thanks to the clear waters, it is possible for snorkellers to
glimpse the mighty ship with shallow duck dives and novice divers
can swim along at 15m for a good view of the superstructure of what
is claimed to be the largest, most intact and accessible wreck of WWII.
For further information about diving the SS President Coolidge, see
www.vanuatu.travel.
