Sea Bird and Kayakers Lindblad Alaska Zodiac
Vessel: National Geographic Sea Bird. 62 pax. 12 knots (max)
46.3m Built: 1981
It was Lars Eric Lindblad who could make the claim to have opened
up commercial expedition cruising back in the ’60s with his
groundbreaking (or perhaps, ‘ice’ breaking) trips to Antarctica (see
CW 10 August 2012).
While Lindblad Expeditions may be a different company nowadays,
the spirit of Lars Eric lives on with a fleet of 17 vessels, including
locally chartered ships, offering a vast array of enriching expeditions
in every ecological hotspot on the planet.
Here in SE Alaska, Lindblad is one of just a handful of small ship
cruise lines with comprehensive, immersive itineraries in this region
typified by towering, snow-capped mountains, enormous icefields
with their glacial offspring and a menagerie of fascinating wildlife
ranging from grizzly bears and humpback whales to giant slugs and
jellyfish.
National Geographic Sea Bird is the perfect size vessel for accessing
these secluded coves and bays that the big ships might only glimpse
from afar.
We nuzzle into hidden backwaters like Elfin Cove, Petersburg and
Bartlett Cove where we disembark and stroll around like locals.
Likewise with our busy activity schedule which includes a choice of
hikes in varying length, kayaking on the mirror-like water or Zodiac
cruises to explore wildlife and scenic splendours.
One night we anchored off Point Adolphus and those who chose to
go to bed were kept awake by humpback whales blowing just metres
from the ship. I watched for an hour or more as a baby humpback
cavorted with young sea lions, intermittently spy-hopping, flukewaving
and breaching just outside my cabin window.
While weather here can be bleak and wet, we were blessed with
consecutive days of bright sun and clear skies, making our shore
excursions warm work indeed. Snow-frosted mountain ranges trailed
off to infinity while it was a cinch to spot mountain goats high up on
ledges and the occasional bear foraging along the shore, biding time
before the much anticipated salmon run.
Apart from the at times overwhelming splendour of the glaciers and
fjords, we are visited by Bertha Franulovich, a native Tlingit elder
who spends a full day aboard helping us fathom the complex family
and tribal structures as well as the powerful connection her forebears
held with this land.
While I am the only Australian aboard, the crew and fellow
passengers make me feel welcome and comfortable and I am
flattered with constant requests to join various tables for dinner.
Two families with children under 10 clearly enjoy the quality time
together in an environment far removed from the dulling effects of
iPhones and computer games. Meals are restaurant quality using
plenty of locally-sourced produce with highlights of salmon, halibut,
crab and shellfish, all complemented by excellent regional wines.
The itinerary, Exploring Alaska’s Coastal Wilderness, is a sevennight
expedition style cruise conducted continuously by Sea Bird and
her twin, Sea Lion, from May through August between Juneau and
Sitka in the waters of the famous Inside Passage.
For details, see www.expeditions.com and for bookings, visit
www.wildearth-travel.com.
The writer is grateful for support from Air New Zealand
[www.airnewzealand.com] that made this report possible.
